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Located on the renowned sand and gravel with a clay subsoil plateau of Pomerol, the vineyards of Château GAZIN cover 64.2 acres in a single lot (56.8 acres under vines), which is large for Pomerol. This area has a well known and respected viticultural history, with the famed Petrus sharing one of Gazin’s borders. Interestingly enough, in 1969 Gazin found themselves in a financial pinch and sold 12.5 acres to Petrus. Although the sale helped to keep Gazin open, some say the loss of those vines reduced the quality of their wine.

The vines, averaging 30 years old, are planted to a density of 5,500 to 6,000 vines per hectare. The planting distribution is 90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc (Bouchet). Gazin produces up to 100,000 bottles each vintage of Bordeaux wine, 6000 bottles of Château GAZIN and 4000 bottles of“l’Hospitalet de Gazin”. Their second AOC Pomerol wine, “l’Hospitalet de Gazin”, was created in 1986 in order to reserve the best of the harvest for Château GAZIN.

The single Guyot pruned vines are handpicked and the grapes fermented in small cement vats. The wine is aged for 18 months in oak barrels (50% new) according to the Bordeaux tradition. While in cask, malolactic fermentation occurs, replacing the harsh malic acid, also found in apples, with softer lactic acid, found in milk. Fining occurs with egg whites and, if necessary, light filtration. After bottling at the château, the wine is shipped in wooden cases to the consumers worldwide. Interestingly enough, 80% of Château GAZIN production is exported.

A brief history (found on the Chateau Gazin website):

The development of the Pomerol vineyard in the 12th century up to the French Revolution of 1789 around the commandary of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, Rhodes and Malta is confirmed by very old documents from the Great Priory of Malta in Toulouse. The present day Château GAZIN, which was once a village in the 18th century, is located on the site of the hospital built by the Knights to host the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostella.

Descendants of the High Lords of Landas, whose coat of arms they bear, the Bailliencourt dit Courcols, belong to one of the oldest families in the Artois region (northern France). The nickname “Courcol” (short neck) was given to one of them by Philippe Auguste, king of France, in 1214, for a feat of arms in the battle of Bouvines. Since then it has become the family motto : “by courage a Courcol”.

It was at the beginning of the 20th century that Louis Soualle, the present owners’ great grand-father, purchased Château GAZIN, which is now lovingly cared for by his descendants. Their children represent the fifth generation of winemakers on the father’s as well as the mother’s side of the family.

Tasting Note: (WSET Format)

APPEARANCE: Clear,  ruby with some rim to core variation, medium intensity

NOSE: clean (no faults), medium to medium (+) intensity, developing, aromas of ripe plum and blackberry fruit with some moist tobacco developing aromas

PALATE: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium (+) tannin, medium (+) alcohol, medium (+) body, medium intensity, blackberry fruit, a spice or clove characteristic, medium (+) length.

CONCLUSIONS: Good quality, high priced (if purchased now).  I think that this wine is still extremely young and will continue to develop.  The nature of the tannins, acidity, and already emerging secondary characteristics, will make this fun to revisit in a few years (5-7).

Suggested food pairings:

Red meat and Game

Chocolate desserts with black fruit

Bordeaux, France is well known for its high dollar, long-lived red wines and some rare whites that can be aged for over a century. Located on the western coast of France, the wine producing areas begin along the Gironde River and extend through the Gironde estuary and follow the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers east. The area boasts a maritime climate due to its proximity to the ocean and has a higher proportion of large estates than any other French wine region.

Looking with a rather simplistic view, Bordeaux can be subdivided into three large areas: Left Bank, Right Bank and Entre-Deux-Mers. The Left Bank refers to the area located to the west and south of the Gironde and Garonne Rivers. The Right Bank lies to the north and east of the Gironde and Dordogne Rivers. Finally, the much overlooked Entre-Deux-Mers is nestled between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers.

In the Left Bank, we find three main further subdivisions: Medoc, Haut-Medoc, and Graves. The area north of Saint-Estephe is called Medoc. Here we see clay soil with outcroppings of gravel and home to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Similar to the Right Bank wines, yet unlike the other areas of the left bank, the Medoc wines are more predominantly Merlot. Also, note that there are no wines here that are ranked in the 1855 classification.

Starting at Saint-Estephe and running south, we have the area of the Haut Medoc. Here, the influence of the predominantly gravel soils encourage the growing conditions for the Cabernet Sauvignon vines, which dominate the blends. To a lesser degree, Merlot and Cabernet Franc are grown in the area. From north to south, we see such high reputation communes as Saint-Estephe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien and Margaux. The prestigious Haut-Medoc contains all but one red from the 1855 classification.

Just south of the city of Bordeaux and extending along the left bank of the Garonne is Graves. The predominantly gravel soils in the north, which helped to name this area, are prime for the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot found here. Moving further south, the soils change, as do the grape varieties. This area’s sandy soils are more known for white wines created with Semillion and Sauvignon Blanc. In 1987 a northern portion of Graves was carved out to create a new appellation, Pessac-Leognan AC. This northern area of Graves contains the most famous properties, including the only 1855 classified first growth outside the Medoc, Chateau Haut-Brion. With all but one Chateau overlooked in the 1855 Classification, Graves created its own classification in 1959. Unlike the tiered structure we see in many other areas, this classification created a separate list of whites and reds that, through judged tasting, can earn the right to be called “Cru Classe”.

Moving to the Right Bank, we see more clay and limestone soil versus the gravel of the Left Bank. As expected with a change in soils, we see a change in the grape varieties. Here Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate. Also unlike the Left Bank, the 1855 Classification does not exist here. Well known ACs such as Fronsac, Bourg, and Blaye are situated here, with Pomerol and Saint-Emilion having the most world-wide fame.

Saint-Emilion, one of the larger and more recognized areas of the Right Bank, has similarities and some unique attributes when comparing it to both the Left Bank and the rest of its Right Bank neighbors. Similar to most of Graves, it falls outside the 1855 Classification. For this reason, the area has developed its own tiered classification system, starting in 1955. Unlike many other regions, the AC structure here is attached to the specific land rather than to the Chateau. This AC-Vineyard connection is reclassified every 10 years based on tastings. The misleadingly prestigious sounding label of “Grand Cru” is rather easily attainable here. The title of Grand Cru Classe is held by about 55 properties, and only 11 made the Grand Cru Classe B category. The highest rank, Grand Cru Classe A, was attained by only Chateaux Cheval Blanc and Ausone.

The small, but well acclaimed, Pomerol is located north of Saint-Emilion and northeast of the town of Libourne. All of the vineyards, just under 2000 acres, are together on a large plateau with one holding being indistinguishable from the next. The soil is mostly gravel and clay but has a type of uniquely high iron-rich clay, appropriately called crasse du fer. Surprisingly, with famous names like Le Pin and Petrus, the area lacks any formal classification system.

I hope this introduction facilitates the understanding of the next few weeks of Bordeaux tastings. Along with the wine tasting notes, I will provide some information about the wine and specific locations. Further information can be found on the website located under the Bordeaux pages. Again, I welcome any feedback, corrections, or further information on these subjects. After all, life is about continued learning, and I feel most gratifying when we all play the role of teacher and student. Cheers!

Bolognese Lasagna

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter

6 strips bacon, diced

1/4 pound ham, diced (can use panchetta for added richness)

1/2 pound ground veal or ground pork, or 1/4 pound of each

1 pound ground beef

1 1/2 cups chopped onion (I cut back on the onion and add a shallot)

1/2 cup finely chopped carrot

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

1/4 pound thinly sliced mushrooms

3 cloves garlic, minced

Pinch ground cloves (a little goes a long way)

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup dry white wine

3 cups chicken stock (you can substitute veal stock if you can find it)

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

4 chicken livers, finely chopped

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1 1/2 pounds fresh pasta (or you can use the sheets of no-bake noodles)

Bechamel Sauce, recipe follows

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan

Directions:

In a large pot heat the butter over medium high heat. Add the bacon and ham and saute until caramelized and light brown, about 10 minutes. Add the ground meats and cook over high heat until well-browned, stirring constantly, about 20 minutes.

Add the onions, carrots, celery, and mushrooms and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, cloves and nutmeg to the pan and cook for 2 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until almost evaporated.

Add stock and simmer over medium high heat until sauce is thickened and flavorful, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Add the chicken livers to the pot and cook 5 minutes. Stir in the cream and parsley, and adjust seasoning if necessary. Set aside until ready to assemble lasagna.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Butter a large rectangular baking dish, then spoon 1/2-cup of meat sauce onto the bottom of the dish. Cover with 1 sheet of fresh pasta. Top the lasagna with a layer of meat sauce (making certain that pasta is completely covered), a layer of bechamel, then a light dusting of cheese. Repeat layering lasagna, sauces, and cheese in this manner until all have been used, ending with a topping of bechamel and cheese.

Bake until the lasagna is bubbling and golden brown, about 1 hour. Allow to rest 10 minutes before serving.

Bechamel:

6 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons flour

4 1/2 cups milk

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

I recommend doubling this part because I like the thick layers of Bechamel with the richness of this dish.

In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat and stir in the flour, stirring constantly until smooth, about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk the milk into the flour, stirring vigorously to blend together. Set over high heat and quickly bring to a boil for 1 minute, stirring. (the full thickening power of the rue cannot be realized until it boils) Allow to cook another 5 minutes, or until floury taste is gone. Remove from heat and add salt and nutmeg to taste.

 My good friend and his wife, knowing I drink a lot of wine and pride myself on trying new and different things, brought a varietal that I have never had before. Let me say that there are many varietals that have escaped me because of their rarity and our limits on importation. This, however, was different. It was different because it was not one of those varietals that people gave up on because it was unmarketable. It was a wine that was on a path to extinction because it only exists in one area of the world. Without further adieu, I introduce Mavrotragano. I know you are reading this and saying, “Never heard of it.” And trust me, that is a shame. This is a grape with a rich history and amazing future potential.

If we look to the beautiful Greek island of Santorini, we find the only Mavrotragano vineyards in the world. A little as 80 years ago, this grape was flourishing all over the island. At that time, it was reserved to making a quaffable sweet wine appreciated by locals and some tourists alike. So how did this “common” grape almost become a memory? There is just one word, “progress”. Much of the vineyards were pulled up for the value of the land. Santorini was getting more popular as a tourist destination. These tourists were bringing money into the local economy and land was needed to build hotels and resorts. The vineyards that did survive the expansion, were being pulled and replanted with the Assyrtiko grape. This grape was more popular and produced a better revenue stream.

 By 2000, Mavrotragano covered less than 2% of Santorinis’ vineyards. The saving grace came from two wine makers, Haridimos Hatzidakis and Paris Sigalas working at the same time but in separate locations. They realized the potential of the grape to produce a dry red wine, something never done before 1995. These pioneers not only saved this varietal from certain doom, they created an exceptionally interesting wine that has now reached cult status in Greece. The cultivation of this grape will, however, always be limited. The grape size is small, the yields are relatively low and the berry matures in stages, requiring multiple passes for vineyard harvest. For this reason, most of these grapes are used for passito, wine made from grapes that were harvested early and dried before pressing.

I had the pleasure of tasting the Sigalas Mavrotragano 2007. This wine is purple with medium plus intensity and demonstrates pronounced tears. The nose has a medium intensity displaying, initially, red and black fruits that ultimately give way to developing characteristics of spice and tobacco. This leads me to believe that this 4 year old wine could have further improved in the bottle. The palate has a nice balance of fruit, medium plus rounded tannins, high alcohol and medium plus acidity. These all come together in a balance where no one component outdoes the other. This was especially nice with the Bolognese lasagna.

This tasting was paradoxical for me because the wine was very familiar to me but at the same time different. I have had wines that remind me of components of Mavrotragano. There is a Nebbiolo, Syrah and Zinfandel familiarity to me in the components of this wine but one would not confuse it with any of these varieties. It was a truly interesting experience. If you ever have the chance, please do not pass it up.

The Bolognese Lasagna recipe is posted. Enjoy!!

The first exam is 100 multiple choice questions on viticulture and vinification (growing grapes and making the juice).  I already purchased two books that are cited as reference for this exam.  All in all, this exam does not seem too bad.

The second assignment is a 2500 -3000 word essay, the subject of which is selected by the WSET.  Once this is completed and turned in, you can sit for the closed book essay on a wine industry case study.

Exams 3 through 6 can be attempted in any order and all involve an essay exam and a written blind tasting exam.  There is an exam on Spirits, Sparkling Wines, Fortified Wines and ‘Still’ Wines.  Apparently the killer exam is the Still Wine sof the World.  This has an initial pass rate of just over 50%, depending on the year.  There is a tremendous amount of material to learn.  My mentor, Joe Raya DWS, showed me his study notes for this exam and it looked like my local (small town) phone book.

So with multiple things running through my head: having to fly for my exams, multi-year commitment, inpact on my family, financial impact, but something I may regret if I do not do, I am struggling with the decision.  I just thought I would share with anyone out there that is reading this.  I welcome any insight or comments. Thanks for reading and your support.